I believe I have seen some YouTuber's installing this setup on their RadRovers. This is a version that comes equipped not only with an integrated freewheel but also a multi-sprocket cassette (though not identical to the stock RPB cassette). I have seen someone on YT use a split freewheel wrench, but I have no idea where to purchase one - perhaps I would just need to take it to a bike shop).īy contrast, if I wanted to upgrade the motor on my RR+ I would need to purchase a 750w motor with an integrated freewheel - is this correct? And if so, is it even possible purchase the Bafang motor with an integrated freewheel? I believe the answer here is yes. If so, then as I now further understand, the Bafang true 750w motor that you linked to has no integrated freewheel, yet which is not a problem for the RR1 so long as I can mount the stock single speed freewheel sprocket onto the new motor hub (which as I also understand requires a special freewheel wrench, and with which lots of people seem to be having difficulties because it won't fit over the motor cable. By contrast, a single speed ebike such as my RadRunner 1 has a freewheel built into the sprocket, which in turn attaches to the motor hub. If I understand you correctly, typical ebikes equipped with shiftable gears (e.g., my RadRunner Plus) will have a motor with the freewheel ("ratchet" mechanism) integrated directly into the hub of the motor itself, and to which a non-freewheel ("fixie") multi-sprocket cassette is attached. I already know from shopping for pannier bags that this. ![]() What I did not know is to which part of the drive train the freewheel is typically attached (or integrated into) e.g., the sprocket/cassette or the motor hub itself? Cargo trailer compatible with RadRunner I have the large platform accessory on my back for carrying most bulky loads however, it doesnt work so well when the load is also top-heavy (as I learned to some bruising last week, more to pride than flesh), so Im searching for a trailer. Thanks for clarifying - the "ratchet" concept of a freewheel I basically already know. I'd have to check around to see what might be available on the aftermarket to make that call. Just not sure I'd want to spend 500 on them. ![]() Runner +, I'd need the front suspension and fenders for sure. Big power, tons of torque, AND a built in electronic rear brake will be the target here.Īs far as Runner vs. which requires it's own controller and display to manage. Next project will most likely use a RAD Rover donor, and a GMAC 10t geared hub with variable regen. I ended up with a MAC 12t (torque monster) geared rear hub and KT based components similar to what Bolton sells in his kits powering the 'City. Big geared hubs make all that much simpler/brain dead. I really don't care for stressing the chain/drive train with big power, especially coupled with the fact I must then manage shifting and power, backing off on the power to shift, even for just a second. About the only OEM remaining are the front wheel, the brakes, the battery, and the frame. Don't worry about 30# in your tires too much unless you're really loaded down.I can sure identify with a project like this! After building my first 2 bikes, I bought a RAD City and proceeded to modify/rebuild MY way. So the equation tells you that with a given temperature, you can raise volume and lower pressure with the same mass of gas. Source: mechanical engineer, triathlete, bike builderĪlso source: the ideal gas law PV = nRT where TL DR: it's about total air molecules in the tube moreso than most other factors It was compliant on the rough stuff but started feeling wallowy, so I went slightly upward for psi. Please be respectful and constructive with feedback. Sometimes that means a DIY fix and other times it can mean a recall, software update or part replacement by a dealer. I was running about 15psi in the rad runner this evening. No ebike is perfect, this is a thread dedicated to sharing known issues or problems with electric bikes from Rad Power as well as any help and solutions you know of. 20 psi on a fat bike can be really, uncomfortably stiff. I've run down to 12 psi in them because they're so high volume there's a ton of air molecules even at those low pressures. ![]() I typically run somewhere around 22 psi in my 2.4" mountain bike tiresįat bikes even more so. Mountain bikes have higher volume, so you can get enough air molecules to do the job without needing to go so high on pressure. This is also why you need to refill road bike tires all the damn time. ![]() They need 80-120psi in the tube just to pack in enough air molecules to keep the rim off the pavement. Road bikes, for example, have very small volume tires. The key to air content for bikes is total actual air molecules in the tube.
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